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PS4 Controller PC Use

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I mentioned borrowing a PS4 and thanks to playing Watch Dogs 2, I decided to grab a Dualshock 4 pad for PC use.

You can use an existing Bluetooth Radio but I decided to go with the official adapter. You will only be able to connect 1 gamepad per bluetooth radio / USB stick. The Official USB Wireless Adaptor has a push in Sync to Bluetooth option and this is a nice physical option, versus setting bluetooth to connect / pairing mode, in your OS software settings.

The USB device is listed as CUH-ZWA1U with a part number of: 3001729 (roughly about $25 USD).
The Gamepad goes for about $60 USD and ships with an internal rechargeable battery pack.

This will work on OS X or a Windows machine. You can confirm the buttons by going into Control Panel | Devices and Printers. Confirming that your DualShock 4 pad buttons register in the diagnostic tools there. If you need some help over using Steam to update your dongle driver, check this TechRadar guide for DS4.

Pretty easy and no diabolical 3rd party driver needed, as was the case with Dual Shock 3 controllers being used on PC.

Jumping back to my PS4 use, the headphone port on the gamepad is really nice. Especially since my TV does not have a headphone out port, I can put some headphones on and plug into the gamepad. I am still checking if you can control the advanced options like Light Color and Brightness for the gamepad on PC, that you can do on the PS4.

Personal opinion, I prefer the analog sticks being next to one another, instead of the offset Xbox approach. I was also considering an Xbox One controller, but for that and the accessories (like rechargeable battery and cable) being extra money, I went with a DualShock 4.
Here is the link from the documentation for the adapter, linked to the Sony product page.

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DS4 Windows will let you see battery life levels and control the color light bar directly. I will give this a spin and see how that goes. By default connections, the light bar will be white. Also of good note is being able to turn the light bar off completely. Some chats seem to indicate is greatly improves battery life. When on PS4, you can set it to low, but not turn off the light bar.

I have to test the battery life myself, but 4 - 6 hours on PS4 without a charge sounds pretty accurate. PC rumblings say it can go to 10 - 12 on PC without the light bar on, but I was also using the headphone jack to play audio to my headphones. So to disable the light bar completely, you have to open the controller and physically disable it. Kind of extreme.

I am messing around with the DS4Windows driver and it has lots of diagnostic options, button configurations, and a means to change the light color. I do not yet see, how to change the intensity brightness though. Oh. Slide all 3 of the color bar options to 0 and the light bar turns off. Excite.
On this Windows 7 PC, it shows my Bluetooth Input Delay at 8ms. Using USB it says the latency is 4ms. I'll see how the main Windows 8.1 PC ranks on latency and how applicable it is.

Finally worth mentioning, you do not need bluetooth at all and can use a USB cable to play and also charge the controller. Confirmed to work in the DS4Windows utility with a USB direct cable connection.

After a couple of days:
While the Steam support does work, DS4Windows gives you many more features, while also being universally accepted by nonSteam games as a 360 compatible gamepad. The touchpad works as a mouse pointer and clicking works like mouse buttons.

Color options in DS4Windows vary due to your settings, but the default color is a Dark Blue when you are connected. When linked in Steam without DS4Windows, your color bar will be Light Blue.
To keep full compatibility / DS4Windows needs to stay running. Otherwise the Steam connection will kick in and you will see as such with your color bar.

Default / Steam (Sync) compatibility will show as Orange when charging. I'm not sure what the default is for DS4Windows, as I have mine currently set to Rainbow for charging. As you may guess, it cycles colors while charging the controller. Below is my running configuration. I really didn't change anything besides the color of the light bar, as I tested some other features on another PC.

I do what to add that the Headphone port also works on PC. Changing your Sound options (in Control Panel), you will see 'Headset Earphone DUALSHOCK 4 USB Wireless Adapter' as an available device. Right-click it and 'Set as default device' to output audio to the headphone port. You may need to increase the Headset Earphone levels in the device properties. Also of notice is the Sample Rate is 2 channel, 16 bit, 32000 Hz.
Considering that audio quality is a formidable degradation from Sample Rate of 24 bit, 48000 Hz on my main sound card, you would be better served running headphones direct from your sound card, if cable distances is not an issue. I wanted to mention this, as walking around with tethered to controller audio, does give you more mobility, but an audio quality decrease. I am able to play any windows audio through the controller audio port, as I did some tests with music playing in foobar 2000 (like a newer winamp player).
Bug: If you do not hear audio coming out the port, adjust the audio volume and it should start playing immediately.

Edited by Pic0o

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Cool, I have a PS4 DualShock 4 thread on here.  Starting out, DS4Windows is an abandoned software that has been replaced with InputMapper.  By that I mean, the people who worked on DS4Windows switched to developing InputMapper.  I have been using it for a month or so and it is vastly more reliable and functional than the DS4Win was.  With DS4Win, you may have seen the issue of needing to close and re-open the app for it to properly detect and attach to your controller.  I registered my copy for like $10 to remove the ads and support the dev folks.

You can still connect by cable or Bluetooth using InputMapper.  If you get errors about 'Not in exclusive mode', you want to get the 'InputMapper HidGuardian' installer from their downloads section.  It will add a service called InputMapper Cerberus Whitelister.  This will fix that issue up and allow you to have nicely emulated Xbox 360 controls.  For conversations sake, I am currently playing Final Fantasy XV with this control method.  Be warned when connecting by Bluetooth, you might see a new sound device... that is the bottom headphone jack on the controller.

Main reason for posting an update in this thread, is that my DualShock 4 controller has the dreaded 'fails to charge battery' issue. iFixit guide for replacing the battery.  However with some searching around, there is potentially an issue with the USB port on the top charging as well?  It's weird because I can play connected by USB to my PC without issue and I can also play Bluetooth but I have to plug into an AC charger for the gamepad to stay on.  After I have it on for a little bit I can unplug the cable and keep playing, but overnight the battery will once again be dead.
Recapping that, it does look like the battery is dead on this model CUH-2CT1U.  Just in case you run into a similar issue.
Oh, it turns out my controller battery is still good.  There is a glitch with it reporting as dead, but if you plug it into a charger then remove it, you will have full battery then show up in InputMapper.

Edited by Pic0o
Battery Glitch

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